You were supposed to go to Greece.
But a cheap bus ticket, a tip from a Belgian guy in a hostel, and a picture of turquoise water changed everything.
Now you’re on Albania’s southern coast—no itinerary, no clue, and no regrets.
Welcome to the Albanian Riviera, where the roads are terrible, the beaches are better than they should be, and freedom costs about €4 a night.
Day 1 – Tirana to Who Knows Where
You catch a minibus from Tirana that has more luggage than passengers and a driver who blasts 90s Europop.
You don’t speak Albanian. It doesn’t matter. Someone hands you a plum. Someone else makes sure you get off at Himarë.
You check into a guesthouse with a sea view and zero online presence. It’s perfect.
Day 2 – The Beach You Didn’t Earn
You wake up. You walk downhill five minutes. You find a beach so clear it feels fake.
There are no bars. No DJs. Just water, rocks, sun, and a stray dog sleeping like a monk.
You nap. You swim. You forget to check your phone. Again, perfect.
Day 3 – The Hitchhiking Works
You meet two Polish girls who swear hitchhiking works here. It does.
A farmer picks you up in a truck full of onions. You ride in silence, wind in your face, sea to your left.
You end up in Qeparo, eat fish caught that morning, and get invited to a birthday party where you don’t know anyone. They give you raki. You dance badly. You belong.
Day 4 – The Castle and the Chaos
You hike to Porto Palermo Castle. It’s quiet. Empty. Overlooks a bay so blue you doubt your eyes.
A goat follows you down. You name him Goran. He leaves you at a beach bar that plays only punk from the ’80s.
You drink a beer with sand on your feet and think, “This is ridiculous.”
You smile.
Day 5 – Leaving Wrong
You try to leave. You really do.
But there’s one more beach. One more hostel dinner. One more sunset that looks Photoshopped.
You buy a bus ticket. Then you don’t use it.
You stay one more day. Maybe two. Who knows?
The Albanian Riviera doesn’t care what you planned.
It only cares that you showed up.
And if you stay longer than expected?
Well… that just means you got it right.
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